最近一直死磕江浙沪玩水,今天来照顾我们要去华南玩的朋友。天热之后,广州本地人最爱去精神后花园白云山,清清凉凉还有隐藏玩水攻略。但就算是经常爬白云山,估计也没有太多人知道,在白云山上藏着一家传奇的南粤国宾馆——山庄旅舍。夸张吗,用传奇两个字来形容?华南理工大学建筑学院的教授甚至专门为它写了一本书,叫做《山庄旅舍:岭南庭园的现代主义》。因为这酒店的内涵,是足够用整整一本书细细分章节来叙述的。 ![](https://static.432520.com/travel-forum/2024/6-10/i_kids/8aeb744001fe.jpg?oss-fix=_sz_png%2F3FF6lWddSiamcib9gpAkE5vscuLmibFM2Do1Cicw6gSNOMoFEMCmNbwibOUtTgoDkesMDEYeuA0OWrbFHicCo0CWLg2A%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Dother%26amp%3Btp%3Dwebp%26amp%3Bwxfrom%3D5%26amp%3Bwx_lazy%3D1%26amp%3Bwx_co%3D1) 山庄旅舍的位置,在白云山摩星岭苏家山东侧。摩星岭是白云山最高峰,海拔382米。山庄旅舍比摩星岭矮一点,走过去大概20分钟的样子。放张地图看一下,全被绿色包围,能想象夏天会有多凉快:到达山庄旅舍,上山有两种方式。自驾可以提前预约,到了白云山景区门口凭报备过的车牌号上山;或者坐景区的接驳车,在山庄旅舍站点下车,接驳车每天9:00-18:00,每小时一班。到了门口就是一块低调的“山庄旅舍”石刻,是董必武的题字。1965年,当时的董副主席下榻于此,并亲笔题名“山庄旅舍”。 沿着大门往里走,别有洞天,开敞的庭园满满绿意。几株斜生的枝丫指向庭园中心一汪浅浅的湖水,黑天鹅在仙气飘飘的湖上游得惬意,湖水倒映着岸上线条简洁的餐厅。这是山庄旅舍给人的第一印象,落落大方的正气,这审美就很国宾馆。而这设计,竟然是六十年前的,一点都不过气。山庄旅舍的故事,可以追溯到北宋年间,并且和苏轼之孙有很深的渊源。北宋时,这里曾建有一座“文昌庵”,是百姓祈求文昌星运的地方。到了南宋,苏轼之孙苏绍箕看中“文昌庵”这块风水宝地,在庵后捐资建造“月溪寺”,这便是山庄旅舍的前身。到明清时期,月溪寺改建“月溪书院”,是当时岭南地区著名的书院之一,也是苏氏宗族子弟赴广东备考科举学习的地方。因此,现在山庄旅舍的大堂里还有苏氏后人送来的龙舟模型。时间一晃到了1962年,广州想寻找一块地方作为国宾馆用于接待,定在了“月溪寺”旧址。由莫伯治组成的设计团队,就是设计了白云宾馆、白天鹅宾馆的那位,用了整整三年,设计出山庄旅舍。很难想象在60年前,莫伯治大师就大胆运用了将传统岭南庭园引入到现代建筑中来的设计手法,以表达建筑的地域性。这么说有点抽象,我总结就是超牛的大师,当时就超有眼光,将酒店建筑结合岭南风格的景观,开创了一个流派。一直到今天再看他的设计,仍然要赞一句高级。![](https://static.432520.com/travel-forum/2024/6-10/i_kids/d6900823b673.png?oss-fix=jpg%2F1OJLFOlS7rPf6XWnDWFVLuVNd70K6PrkHH6RibzkEbpqqKVX4Ticwicvv3HAI4GZ6XyBUSjTgnHh4YKRo5NZelC3Q%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg%26amp%3Bfrom%3Dappmsg)
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从1962年开始,山庄旅舍承担内部接待功能,不对外开放,是闲人勿进的神秘酒店。2001年,山庄旅舍请回莫伯治大师以及他的设计团队,扩建出二期,终于对外了。 2022年,山庄旅舍又一次维护更新,通过“修旧如旧”的一系列微改造,延续了山庄作为历史建筑的原有风貌,维持了山庄的古朴神韵。这一段写起来都觉得漫长的故事,让山庄旅舍充满了传奇要素。 酒店非常精巧,整体三面环山,一条溪流蜿蜒流下,依据山势高差与溪流走向,山庄旅舍的各种功能分散布置在地形的不同位置上,高低错落。不同建筑之间,以游廊连接,两边赏景的同时,即使下雨天也可以在酒店里自由走动。 ![](https://static.432520.com/travel-forum/2024/6-10/i_kids/0aed810f83e5.png?oss-fix=jpg%2F1OJLFOlS7rPf6XWnDWFVLuVNd70K6PrkysO2l3ZyaicvPuesfYnpoQpHdomhibG9zIBhXHFemNRYD71sFQUCYarA%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg%26amp%3Bfrom%3Dappmsg) 大堂位置比餐厅还要靠后一点,地势也更高。一道弯曲的连廊贯穿中庭蜿蜒而上,顺着连廊就到大堂。门口漂亮的山墙、嵌瓷、满洲窗都是岭南传统的象征。![](https://static.432520.com/travel-forum/2024/6-10/i_kids/173d5122e68e.png?oss-fix=jpg%2F1OJLFOlS7rPf6XWnDWFVLuVNd70K6PrkAbAfGd9knfPQIdBicJANTq1yJ9EzLcUU9ibDWqxp9w8rTfX9c8aiciaMYg%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg%26amp%3Bfrom%3Dappmsg)
![](https://static.432520.com/travel-forum/2024/6-10/i_kids/d37baad99d8a.png?oss-fix=jpg%2F1OJLFOlS7rPAb782kuRdsRRiccicew4MFZCGJFNibwxzKEge55SrAe631uGR0gUzAnV4gd0OuHNVPGQxDfgyibNUibA%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg%26amp%3Bfrom%3Dappmsg) 连着大堂有一间小小的休息室,这时候提供清热消暑的罗汉果茶。还有一间茶室,可以喝茶赏景,非常风雅。
走过大堂前往客房区域,会经过个人觉得最漂亮的一处中式庭院,尺度非常小,但给人感觉山水皆有,非常精彩。锦鲤池、石桥、四周的回廊,再加上丰富的林木山石,组合在一起,有种诗情画意的静谧感。庭院里很多树都是名贵树种,绿荫如盖,一棵玉堂春暖更是传闻来自于故宫。 ![](https://static.432520.com/travel-forum/2024/6-10/i_kids/664e2e3f8848.png?oss-fix=jpg%2F1OJLFOlS7rPf6XWnDWFVLuVNd70K6Prk3Bdvzic23eZQ97XGbhiaYWFdQugJGwPdW4RG7yaEAsbnob5P5Y9Mibutg%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg%26amp%3Bfrom%3Dappmsg) 光影都像是计算过角度,不同时刻有不同时刻的美。住在里面两天,一片树叶飘下来,一只野果掉下来,锦鲤突然扑通跃出水面,晚上蛙鸣阵阵,都是稀松平常。山庄旅舍一共42间客房,分为31间标间、7间别墅和4间套房。锦鲤池这边是一期的园景房、云山别墅和套房,层高在两层以下。再通过一条折廊走向二期的综合楼,这边是山景房。二期主要由莫京大师设计,能明显感觉出和一期的风格相比,更加现代简约一些。综合楼共5层,四楼五楼是客房,配有明亮的电梯厅。
这次入住的是山庄旅舍的基础房型,位于综合楼五楼的山景房,房间面积已经有60平,一张大床还带一张小沙发床,非常宽敞。新中式的风格看着舒服,大阳台外面绿色超级洗眼睛,有浴缸。
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房间里的细节很用心。胶囊咖啡机、茶具、JBL音响、还给了小蛮腰造型的矿泉水。迷你吧有汽水、有珠江特制纯生。拖鞋是很厚实的那种,洗漱用品上还印有山庄旅舍的元素。 ![](https://static.432520.com/travel-forum/2024/6-10/i_kids/6c742c3ec08d.png?oss-fix=jpg%2F1OJLFOlS7rPf6XWnDWFVLuVNd70K6PrkBfK0WMMQrbrSCAxYWbfFwIbzjQl4oheThzXrxRL4e4coquEzHZ0w6g%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg%26amp%3Bfrom%3Dappmsg)
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![](https://static.432520.com/travel-forum/2024/6-10/i_kids/b4496a93c977.png?oss-fix=jpg%2F1OJLFOlS7rPAb782kuRdsRRiccicew4MFZUDpiaoD9DxMiauWUbLicJ6icXjdQf709HeibbQuj1vTuUYOHticfJsftga9g%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg%26amp%3Bfrom%3Dappmsg)
![](https://static.432520.com/travel-forum/2024/6-10/i_kids/7bce0655e77b.png?oss-fix=jpg%2F1OJLFOlS7rPAb782kuRdsRRiccicew4MFZwCibPjImphGvmnjPWtyl44BBgh8yX7zpR0CMW1IMNvIpibhfXkdbVTGg%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg%26amp%3Bfrom%3Dappmsg) 园景房面积小一些,40平,推开窗就是锦鲤池。床头是特意邀请广绣大师亲手刺绣的花鸟壁画,自然感一下就带到客房里了。
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复式的云山别墅,面积117平,以西关大屋为设计灵感,很有特色。一楼是个小厅,二楼上来是卧室,中间空出一块天井采光很足。二楼还有个私人阳台可以走出去。 ![](https://static.432520.com/travel-forum/2024/6-10/i_kids/b2da3fa71384.jpeg?oss-fix=jpg%2F1OJLFOlS7rPf6XWnDWFVLuVNd70K6PrktK7oRickZduzAiaGfb4fiaOxOn9bbyNxDA8gRkDVoTiczOaTCMHS5hHw5g%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg)
![](https://static.432520.com/travel-forum/2024/6-10/i_kids/ad688d8daac2.png?oss-fix=png%2F1OJLFOlS7rPf6XWnDWFVLuVNd70K6PrkjmhP9Pctxd7Yah6XMo8DIYAo5hEz6abhdl8Cl8nrHSibhKCwjINEKww%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Dpng%26amp%3Bfrom%3Dappmsg)
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酒店里还有传奇的套房,叫做天然居。天然居的风格和园景房很像,但面积大到460平,包含两个卧室和客厅书房等。这套房曾经接待过无数名人,比如郭沫若和他的夫人。现在在天然居后面庭园的山坡处,还可以看到郭沫若和夫人为山庄题写的“听泉之处”与“葱茏”,雕刻在溪边的石头上。天然居还特别在拥有一个室内泳池,这可是六十年前的设计,太壕了! ![](https://static.432520.com/travel-forum/2024/6-10/i_kids/36c915043ed2.jpeg?oss-fix=jpg%2F1OJLFOlS7rPf6XWnDWFVLuVNd70K6PrkuAncOxzeY3CvkXoIzuVGUNlmIoliakEUey0kXTJXPuH8nEFnVGLJfVA%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg%26amp%3Bfrom%3Dappmsg)
![](https://static.432520.com/travel-forum/2024/6-10/i_kids/5ec95f196934.jpeg?oss-fix=jpg%2F1OJLFOlS7rPf6XWnDWFVLuVNd70K6Prkkpc5I0mM0vCGSkevge9rSlBTmLagIHrBar1d8sbL6JaibBnMjcicpLrA%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg%26amp%3Bfrom%3Dappmsg)
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今天山景房和云山别墅有套餐。 ¥788,山景房1晚+双早+夏日特饮2杯+白云山双人门票1份;
¥1388,云山别墅1晚+白云山双人门票1份;
有效期都到9月29日,789月周六+200、中秋+450。夏天白云山很热门的,山景房含双早日历房价格在1100左右,这次788还送夏日特饮2杯,划算。云山别墅也比日历房便宜700块,但就是不含早需要注意下。
山庄旅舍一共两间餐厅,早餐在综合楼的星光吧,很洋气的餐厅,拍照相当出片。位上的早餐有粥有蒸点,滑溜溜的白云桂花山水豆花嫩到入口即化。
![](https://static.432520.com/travel-forum/2024/6-10/i_kids/d5e5c99d9230.png?oss-fix=jpg%2F1OJLFOlS7rPAb782kuRdsRRiccicew4MFZ9YhyyLuPNeHgxhGoVKZHt0iaGEGutKdjm8nMDs7LmoUqPWzon3t2XFA%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg%26amp%3Bfrom%3Dappmsg)
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另一间陶然餐厅,临湖而建,晚上亮灯之后美得惊艳。陶然餐厅主打粤菜,出品地道。印象最深的是白云猪手,酸酸甜甜太惊艳,配上一杯老树单枞茶,吃的心满意足。 ![](https://static.432520.com/travel-forum/2024/6-10/i_kids/a9444ad8ec3b.png?oss-fix=jpg%2F1OJLFOlS7rPAb782kuRdsRRiccicew4MFZPTV2tBCuLyyvJZx2ib0oibqbt0ULFfB1YTreSKSbAwaubPjJXZuFtnxw%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg%26amp%3Bfrom%3Dappmsg)
![](https://static.432520.com/travel-forum/2024/6-10/i_kids/ca9dc9c9707d.png?oss-fix=jpg%2F1OJLFOlS7rPAb782kuRdsRRiccicew4MFZ24s59kZW4Pe2Ad7Yrib03iciboLH5ylianTHLibYlEDyl0w0Kwq8Lrsd3iaQ%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg%26amp%3Bfrom%3Dappmsg)
![](https://static.432520.com/travel-forum/2024/6-10/i_kids/c5b0c16e4eb5.png?oss-fix=jpg%2F1OJLFOlS7rPAb782kuRdsRRiccicew4MFZq2h3jf1ETibzh041QgNgOD476ib2kTP655rNnJ8icgkMKzuxqdY7Nn4xg%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg%26amp%3Bfrom%3Dappmsg) 山庄旅舍综合楼有个小的儿童活动室,可以读一些亲子绘本,但来了白云山,还是推荐出去玩!
酒店里有很多这样自然的步道,散散步呼吸新鲜空气,班味都没了。
![](https://static.432520.com/travel-forum/2024/6-10/i_kids/1bf238183518.png?oss-fix=jpg%2F1OJLFOlS7rPAb782kuRdsRRiccicew4MFZHKAD6ibmG3D7gciayaZZLeZ4C8VRAqw66AMq5dgKKS5HyfvrYw1qNDMg%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Djpeg%26amp%3Bfrom%3Dappmsg)
出了酒店大门有座亭子,是公认的白云山看日出最佳地点之一。也可以俯瞰广州,密密麻麻拔地而起的摩天大楼,有没有看过这个视角?还是挺震撼的吧。 最后是隐藏的玩水攻略! 要玩水先去坐景区观光车,从山庄旅舍门口一路坐到明珠楼。如果不想坐观光车,溜达过去也行,只是花的时间久一点。到了明珠楼,买一支五羊牌雪糕,这可是广东人的骄傲。反正没在别的地方见过这牌子,这么多年没做过营销,真的好吃! ![](https://static.432520.com/travel-forum/2024/6-10/i_kids/e13189857aef.png?oss-fix=jpg%2F1OJLFOlS7rPqDqBiaJdiatrnmP26pUic4eyovmk4miaXXO8FVcibz2fyFYrE533Wu6YFiarcF1DayicNNxfJKmmIWX1icw%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Dother%26amp%3Btp%3Dwebp%26amp%3Bwxfrom%3D5%26amp%3Bwx_lazy%3D1%26amp%3Bwx_co%3D1)
明珠楼往右边走一点,有个入口进去是桃花涧,这就是个隐藏的小众玩水地。溪水是从山上下来的,很干净水很浅,全长加起来大概有几十米的样子,分了几段隔出了几个小池子,捞鱼打水仗玩法比较野。下游的小朋友如果比较多,就往上面源头走一走,一样能玩。 ![](https://static.432520.com/travel-forum/2024/6-10/i_kids/15aa74ffa3d9.png?oss-fix=jpg%2F1OJLFOlS7rPqDqBiaJdiatrnmP26pUic4ey92L2GAQOPytVDpwXUb4p6swlEU27icU5mibhA5tj15b6n7KpEc8riaC2w%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Dother%26amp%3Btp%3Dwebp%26amp%3Bwxfrom%3D5%26amp%3Bwx_lazy%3D1%26amp%3Bwx_co%3D1)
![](https://static.432520.com/travel-forum/2024/6-10/i_kids/04f9f5e93d8c.png?oss-fix=jpg%2F1OJLFOlS7rPqDqBiaJdiatrnmP26pUic4eyZQELWApRNhLJP7Mb9pd9mmNDysfYpQfeX8VePxkuTZYW2ibUTuNAAwQ%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Dother%26amp%3Btp%3Dwebp%26amp%3Bwxfrom%3D5%26amp%3Bwx_lazy%3D1%26amp%3Bwx_co%3D1)
![](https://static.432520.com/travel-forum/2024/6-10/i_kids/e0f05b46f853.png?oss-fix=jpg%2F1OJLFOlS7rPqDqBiaJdiatrnmP26pUic4eyJdVJibAZNFibo2o4bPIIEgpahhx7B3ze04F63UcIoRgevPb6PzR42dVQ%2F640%3Fwx_fmt%3Dother%26amp%3Btp%3Dwebp%26amp%3Bwxfrom%3D5%26amp%3Bwx_lazy%3D1%26amp%3Bwx_co%3D1) 难得发现这么有故事的酒店,既低调又懂得享受,只能说不愧是南粤国宾馆啊。 |